TUILERIES AND OPERA: The 19th-century grandeur of Baron Haussmann's Grands Boulevards offsets the bustle of bankers, theater-goers, sightseers and shoppers who frequent the area around the Opera. In the neighbourhood, a profusion of shops and department stores draws the crowds. Much of the area's older character is found in the early 19th-century shopping arcades, with elaborate steel and glass roofs. They are known as "galleries" or "passages" and were restored to their former glory in the 1970s. Galery Vivienne, which is the smartest, has an elaborate, paterned mosaic floor. the Passage des Panoramas, Passage Verdeau and the tiny Passage des Princes are more old-style Parisian. These streets abound with food shops of all kinds, noted for their mouthwatering displays of expensive jams, spices, pâtés, mustards and sauces.